As many of you may already know, Hurricane Kyle recently passed in
close proximity to Maine. Weather such as this often causes stress
amongst people concerned for the safety of their homes and loved ones.
I saw a different opportunity arise that is not usually present. The
forecasted swell was to be approximately seven to nine feet. This being
only my second time surfing, I knew that an extreme struggle was
awaiting me as I squeezed into my creepily tight-fitting wet suit,
which gave me flashbacks of the extra-small paintball jumpsuits at
As I walked barefooted onto the beach and watch some of the
waves crash, I had some second thoughts about what I was getting myself
into. After a prolonged thrashing in the white wash, I somehow managed
to paddle out. My arms were hanging dead along side my board as I
floated uselessly in the surf trying to catch my breath. When it
finally came time to try to catch a wave, in short I failed miserably
for quite some time. After struggling for about an hour, I caught one.
The waves were much bigger than anything I had ever surfed and so the
speed scared me a little bit as I skipped across the surface wildly.
When my head broke the surface of the water it is safe to say that I
was grinning from ear to ear. I ended up surfing for about 5 and a half
hours total, and catching a grand total of 6 waves. Not the greatest time to wave ratio, but hey, can you think of a better way
to use a hurricane?